@Smegel yes I’ve had it about 2 years. Agreed it may be worth having a look to see if its fixable, disheartening to have so early in the period of ownership.
I’d try to see what Rose has to say first.
The warranty is 2yrs so if its under 2yrs … it should be covered. (Don’t know what’s happening now post MoFi.) Also assuming you’re in the US.
I’ll wait to see what they say, its over two years.
I’m in Canada.
For safety, please still check the only Cinch cable from the Rose to your amplifier. I assume the cable is in good condition. Remove the cable from your HiFi components. Then check the cable for continuity and test with the Plus probes on the Plus (inner finger) for continuity (beep). Do the same with the ground (outer contact) (beep). Then take the probes and hold one on the negative and the other on the Plus (no beep sound should be heard). Of course, test both channels L+R on the cable.
Dude, do you actually read the posts, or do you just copy-paste the first thing that pops up on Google AI to sound important? You clearly missed half the facts here!
Your AI-generated theories completely miss reality. Let me break down the actual facts for our “YouTube Special Agent” here:
- Reading is a superpower – try it sometime: You’re seriously asking what happens if he mutes the system? It said right there in the very first text: “…it happened regardless of volume control, even at zero the pops were the same level.” If it pops even with the volume turned down to absolute ZERO, a mute button isn’t going to do squat. The DC voltage is generated after the Rose’s volume control stage and shoots directly, unfiltered, straight into the power amp.
- Your grounding theory makes zero logical sense: You’re rambling about ground loops between source devices. Again, read the text! He literally disconnected every single input cable (“disconnected everything connected to the RS250A’s inputs”). There was nothing plugged into the Rose except the power amp. If there are no source devices connected, there are no ground differences between them. Touching the chassis or the cable to act as a ground is completely useless here.
- The issue is the Rose, not the cables: Of course I (Bonte) am pointing the finger at the Rose RS250A—because it’s the only physically logical explanation left! The popping is perfectly synced with the internal clicking of the relays (“coincides with the relay switching internally”). That is a textbook DC voltage spike because the Rose’s internal muting circuit or coupling caps are failing during relay switching (likely due to severe thermal stress and dried-out caps).
The lack of true XLR symmetry on a direct RCA connection means this internal design flaw of the Rose hits the power amp and speakers completely unfiltered and at full blast.
But hey, nice Google search anyway. Next time, try understanding the actual problem and reading the post before playing the IT expert! 
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Sorry Bonte,
You always want to jump to the conclusion that the unit is defective rather than think about something else.
Its a flesh wound, therefore we need to amputate at the neck.
Sorry Bonte, but before you go off the deep end… rule out possibilities that don’t take much to fix.
Oh and Bonte, have you ever opened up your Rose gear.
If you had, you might learn something about Rose.
I never open devices that perform their function as a healing device.
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