Yes Huge difference for my previous R250! It is a must to extend the potential of the unit. Mine is using the SR purple but easily blown away by my another pc from Japan!
It looks normal but sound extraordinarily! !
I am using it now for my power amp.
Some audio manufacturers would even has choices for fuse upgrade. You wonât hardly believe the difference until you try it out by yourself and the receptacle also! Expensive but the best now so far from my hearing. It costs US$1,300 each
From Synergisticâs comedy gold website:
Yes, fuses are directional. Electricity should flow from the left to the right when you view the fuse.
Since most people, most likely, are plugging their devices into AC mains (AC, for the special children here, stands for alternating current), are we supposed to flip the fuse 60 times a second (for audiophiles in the North America), 50 times rest of the world to match the direction of flow?
And of course they have âburn-inâ (LOL) period that, under most reasonable listening schedules conveniently exceeds the money-back guarantee period.
It takes some very special level of being intellectually challenged to actually give these people moneyâŠ
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Do you really think that changing a fuse will change the sound of the system?
If yes, why not try normal fuses from different brands first?
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I use SR Orange Quantum fuses in PS Audio DAC, but it was included when I bought it. I have a spare in case needed. I did not measure the difference between LE vs HE fuses yet, so I cannot tell if there is any difference.
I did spend a significant amount in room acoustic treatment (about 12K over a period of about the last 4 years in order to be able to pay for ) in âart-novionâ pannels, sub and bass traps.) (https://www.artnovion.com). Half of it is second hand or demo equipment that went obsolete for sale.
As I also keep measurements before and after each change in the system, I can advise you on the level of acoustics , this 12 K-EUR is the best money I ever spend, as the gains are enormous in audio quality, RT60, and musical clarity (C80) en definition (D50), blackness of ground noise, âŠ
I also agree on the allusion that investing in acoustic treatment first is far better than investing in details such as fuses and expensive cables.
Saying Investing in better (and frequently more expensive) interlink cables would be complete âperlimpimpinâ ??? ( I love it too 
) is one bridge too far as I have several proof on measurement level there is a difference.
Once acoustics are improved, nuances on details coming from other interlink or speaker cables, power sine regenerators such as PS audio P3, P5, ⊠and other (minor) upgrades will start to be audible and even measurable in the audio system. So investing in better cables could be beneficial. (on fuses I donât know yet as I did not test it yet, and not planning too in the near future)
One example Last February I changed my subwoofer XLR interlink cables for my 2 x SVS-SB16 subs from a regular XLR Neo-W XLR interlink to mid-end Viablue NF-S1 XLR (2ch x 5m from the preamp towards the Sub1 and daisy chaining with 2ch x 10 m to Sub2. )
In annex an average of several measurements before and after changing the cables. (exact same calibration settings and dbfs , no obstacles or changes in surroundings, same sub and bass trap settings.
Results, see for yourself between 1,5 to 2 db delta between before and after (Orange = Before change / Purple = After change). (As from about 1 db, human ear can notice the differences). As a conclusion I tuned my subs 1db down, to avoid clarity loss in higher harmonic frequencies. so no âperlimpimpinâ, these are facts.
The proof is in the pudding , so why not try it, âŠ
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This is very interesting. Were both measurements taken at the same time with the exact same microphone location?
Not exact but before noon and noon during weekend (so more silent than weekdays). Mic on the exact same location and distance as always. 315 cm from main speakers middle point
Eventhough time for subs is less sensitive in my experience.
The high freqs are more sensitive to this, âŠ
Interesting. Would be quite neat if it did make a different, but air temperature and humidity might have been different, too.
Itâs interesting that they track pretty well up to 100Hz or so, difference possibly explainable by lower resistance of a fancier cable (youâd hope it is at least thicker) but start diverging quite a bit at higher frequencies/shorter wavelengths.
Iâll have to try that in one session, swapping MIT cables for some generic lamp cord and backâŠ
My hypothesis is indeed the difference capacitance/m and as you say lower resistance.
My subs consume a bit less now to produce the same output. 
I encountered even bigger differences (measuring was not even needed) in phono interlink cables when I was still using the Project RPM5 with Moon LP310 Phono Preamp and Rose RS250 (ADC conversionfunction) half a year ago.
Waiting for another 2 weeks on a Project Xtension X10 with Cadenza Black cartridge, and optional Audioquest Angels PSS tonearm cable. Iâm curious on the results.
Thatâs always good, might even pay for itself after a while
By the way, how do you like SB16? I have SB-2000 Pro where the Rose 520 will go, when it finally gets here, but it might be slightly small for a Texas-sized room and I think my wife will flip if I put two subs there (although that would be better), so I was looking at one⊠Either that, or pick up a pair of Triton References when I get the 520âŠ
Artnovion probably has the greatest impact though, I just donât even want to think how much it would cost to treat every room where I listen to music in here⊠Convolution filters in Roon help too, though.
see pm as we are going too much off topic here
+1 on the fuse âsnake oilâ. As an EE and enjoying this hobby for over 30 years you realize that the most important factors are:
- Good conductors
- Good connectors or no connectors
- Secure connections (using a combination of soldering and mechanical crimping)
This means utilizing OCC pure copper (silver you want the best IACS conductivity) wherever you can.
Any type of mods I have done on the IEC inlet/power supply areas has never yielded âimproved/betterâ sound. I do these mods to create a cleaner signal path, eliminating unnecessary switches, fuses, upgrading wiring. In most cases newer electronics have secondary fusing at the power supply board/circuitry, so eliminating the IEC inlet fuse is not a concern for me.
Iâm a huge proponent to try it for yourself. If you think a tweak makes your listening experience better, then thatâs a winning outcomeâŠ
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Indeed.
Yup. It sometimes makes sense to get more expensive (analog) cables, if you donât feel like soldering yourself, just to get higher quality connectors, but thatâs about it.
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I agree with all posts to enhance first the big things in audiophile chaineâŠâŠand then perhaps you hear a difference by replacing a fuse.
Never forget that any electrons like to pass from IN to OUT without any obstacles.
Obstacles means any cristal inconveniences in the copper.
Since I changed all !!! My cables with any 5N, 6N âŠâŠ silver coated copper âŠ.and and and by cables produced with only !!! copper OCC (Ohno Casted Copper) the improvement was amazing. So I will change any fuses.
Try the Scottland manufacturer driven by only engineers to find the best way for electrons in 1 !!! Cristal OCC copper cables: I will never miss Atlas Cables, the simple way by copper cables.
So the fuse marketing is the best moneymaker âŠ.for the production company.
The way for electrons in 15 mm metal compared with meters of other cablesâŠâŠbig question mark.
The best way NO fuseâŠâŠ.
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Excuse me but I prefer to write in french because my english is not very good.
Je vous propose la manip suivante : enlevez le fusible et remplacez le (momentanément bien sûr) par un bout de cùble identique à celui qui arrive avant le fusible. Faites vos comparaisons, si un fusible fait une différence, jetez le !!
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Cela montre quoi ? Que vos cùbles ne sont pas rigoureusement identiques en longueurs, que les connecteurs sont différents, que les conditions de mesure ne sont pas rigoureusement identiques,�
Prenez vos deux cùbles différents mettez les sur un banc de mesure et comparez les courbes en amplitude et en phase en fonction de la fréquence. Si la différence de 1.5 dB en amplitude persiste un des cùble a un problÚme !
Enfin une diffĂ©rence de niveau de 1 dB entre les courbes ne signifie pas quâun des cĂąble est meilleur que lâautre. Si cet exemple sert Ă montrer que lâoreille humaine peut dĂ©celer un diffĂ©rence de niveau de 1.5 dB, cela nâest pas un scoop.
Quand on veut comparer des cĂąbles il faut commencer rĂ©gler les niveaux identiquement Ă lâentrĂ©e de vos sub Ă chaque mesure. On sait que lâoreille et le cerveau interprĂštent souvent le signal le plus fort comme Ă©tant le âmeilleurâ, toutes choses Ă©gales par ailleurs.
Ne dĂ©pensez pas votre argent pour 1.5 dB dâĂ©cart !
Le grand âpipeauâ du son des cĂąbles a encore un bel avenirâŠ
Well, I thought Iâd try it for myself and got an SR purple fuse to try out for 30 days. I could send it back if I couldnât hear any difference. Of course I was hoping I couldnât tell the difference, which would save me âŹ199, but alasâŠ. My RS250A sounds so much more open, with instruments and voices all in a more defined place, more control in the bass department. Itâs like getting a a much better dac.
And before all you non-believers start fuming at the mouth: We did blind tests. My son changing fuses, with me and an audio buddy out of the room. We both could tell which fuse was in the Rose every time. And when my son did the blind tests, he passed every single time as well. I donât know the science behind all this and I doubt if you can measure differences in soundstage at all, but the fuse makes a difference. Donât say it impossible or my imagination until youâve tried it for yourself.
Wow, thatâs some really strong power of self-delusion!
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