I purchased my 250A from Elite Audio in Scotland. I have shopped with therefor 20 years because they always give. me good advice. The 220/240 instead of the 120 arrived at my USA home. I asked them about the problem and they replied that I only needed to purchase a 120 power cord. Is that correct? What cord should I buy? Thanks, Lance
The HiFi Rose RS250A features an internal power supply designed to operate within both common voltage ranges:
AC 100–120 V and AC 220–240 V at 50/60 Hz.
Power Consumption:
The unit consumes approximately 50 W during operation.
Fuse:
A T3.15AL / 250 V type fuse is used.
Power Supply Type:
It is equipped with a linear power supply that is specially shielded to minimize noise and ensure a clean power supply for the audio circuitry.
Scotland/UK: Uses a Type G plug (BS 1363) with three rectangular pins, often featuring an integrated fuse within the plug itself.
USA: Uses a NEMA 5-15 plug with two flat pins and a round ground pin.
A Scottish power cable cannot be used in the USA—or vice versa—without an adapter or plug modification, as the design is tailored to the respective national electrical standards.
I hope this helps.
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You can pick up a cable pretty much anywhere.
Best Buy, Home Depot, etc …
There are people who make custom power cables … some at reasonable prices.
And yes power does actually make a difference.
Note: Power conditioner is recommended. A re-generator is a bit overkill but if your system is over $20K … its not an outrageous investment.
Mikey! Stop it, please.
The forum member asked which specific power cable he needs to connect to his Rose 250A in the States so that the connection will fit your wall sockets.
Please stop bringing up Snake Oil Audio. Or start a separate thread for that.
Or why not just recommend a Stromtank S6000-alpha—or the S5000 HIGHPOWER—to him right away, for “ONLY” a cool €48,483.00?
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@Bonte
Awww
Just being complete. Cause you know your hero Boris will come here and say that it doesn’t matter or impact the sound you hear.
My hero… Boris.
Stop it already …you’re always provoking him and then you’re surprised when he verbally puts you in the corner again, like a broom.
I have my Bose Wave Radio plugged into its own dedicated Stromtank.
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Lol… 
Absolutely fantastic—it doesn’t get any better than this. A whole lot of high-end Hi-Fi manufacturers could learn a massive lesson from this. 
Sounds about your speed.
And it does not. Believing that a power cable can affect the sound is a sign of IQ too low even for you. Although you still manage to surprise us with new lows every week.
See, Mikey? There you go again.
“Another punch to the gut!”
Must have missed it.
So, what now? Aren’t you sleeping at all?
My night is over. I’m an early riser. I always get up at 4:30 in the morning.
“The early bird catches the worm.”
Huh?
You’re in Germany.
I’m in Chicago. Not even 10:00pm CST ( -6 GMT)
Its sad that you have to eat worms to get your protein.
Maybe that’s why you can’t sleep? 
See? You can do it after all!
I know that you know that it’s a proverb.
Oh I’ve always been able to.
The problem is that its easy to cross the line from banter to hitting home and really hurting someone’s feelings. So I don’t like to do it.
At the same time… it doesn’t translate well into other cultures and frankly I’m kind of embarrassed of my behavior w Boris. Its just that I don’t like bullies and Rose is right in that they don’t want to censor conversations.
The reason I started to talk about power is that the conversation starts off w a cheap cable from Best Buy, Micro Center, Home Depot (Or your country’s equivalent) and then about getting custom cables or building your own w better gauge wires and components.
Where someone like Boris will chime in about how the cable doesn’t really matter and the power supply in your gear should be able to make the best out of the power… and that sort of thing.
So I just short circuited it.
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It always takes two.
Proverb:
Whoever puts on the shoe has only themselves to blame!
Well, I just can’t wrap my head around all this nonsense regarding power conditioners or power tanks.
If—as is the case in Germany—strict guidelines for power supply and safety must be adhered to, then I really don’t need to worry. The mains filters built into the devices themselves are perfectly good filters, provided they meet Hi-Fi standards.
Besides, what manufacturer would want to sell expensive equipment only to have millions of units returned because they hum or crackle?
I haven’t noticed any such defects with my 520—something I actually posted about here two years ago. And yes, perhaps that’s because I use the device exactly as it was intended—because I didn’t try to turn it into some sort of “egg-laying jack-of-all-trades.” There are other devices and manufacturers for that.
On top of that, many countries simply don’t have the same high standards from their power providers—or they have dense urban areas, or situations where people are tinkering with the power grid or feeding power back into it. It simply has a lot to do with the infrastructure in many countries. Take your situation, for instance: the infrastructure in the States is—compared to Germany—well, let’s just say it’s not quite as good. Lots of overhead lines and utility poles. Sure, we have high-voltage transmission lines running across the countryside here, too, but the standard residential power supply is entirely underground.
Oh, sigh… one could go on talking about this for hours.
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Hi Boris,
In Germany, there is a three-stage protection concept:
Type 1:
(Coarse Protection / Lightning Current Arrester): Installed in the main distribution board or meter cabinet. It diverts high levels of energy in the event of direct lightning strikes.
Type 2:
(Medium Protection / Surge Arrester): Mounted in the sub-distribution board. It protects end devices against indirect lightning effects and switching overvoltages.
Type 3:
(Fine Protection / Device Protection): Applied directly upstream of the end device—for example, via power strips equipped with surge protection.
Installation and Fusing:
Surge Protective Devices (SPDs) are mounted on a DIN rail inside the meter cabinet. According to standards, they must be protected against short-circuit currents by a dedicated protective device (fuse) to ensure operational safety.
Function Monitoring:
Modern surge protection devices often feature a visual status indicator (green/red) or a remote signaling contact to indicate whether the protection is still active or if the device needs to be replaced following a surge event.
Key Standards:
Installation must comply with DIN VDE 0100-443 (regarding necessity) and DIN VDE 0100-534 (regarding selection and installation).
Important Note:
The installation of surge protection (Types 1 & 2) within the fuse box must only be carried out by a qualified electrician.
That covers the most important information I found via my electricity provider. Every two years, electricians commissioned by the provider come to inspect the meter cabinets in the basement and test the RCDs (residual current devices) in the apartment to ensure they still meet the required tripping time standards (measured in milliseconds).
The only thing I make sure to avoid is using that cheap LED junk from China. I always test them using my vintage audio system; if I hear any interference on the FM band—which is set to be completely switched off soon—while an LED bulb is switched on, that bulb goes straight into the trash. When I need LED light bulbs, I usually buy the ones from Philips. They are properly shielded against interference, and I don’t hear any static or noise during FM reception. Everything else—such as washing machines, coffee makers, and God knows what else—is generally “clean,” because otherwise, these devices wouldn’t be allowed on the market, as they wouldn’t meet the relevant DIN-VDE standards. Of course, there are always a few “black sheep”—for instance, on sites like Temu, and all that other cheap junk from the Far East.
But anyone who isn’t completely blind, or doesn’t care about anything, knows that!
Boris, I took that for granted. Naturally, I assumed it would be fitted with the correct internal conductors—e.g., 1.5 mm² cross-section—including a protective earth conductor. That is precisely why I didn’t even mention it. If the forum member purchases a properly assembled American-style cable from a reputable vendor (preferably not Temu), it should be perfectly fine. I imagine that these standard cables can be found in just about any Walmart.
Obviously, one shouldn’t go connecting doorbell wire to a 250A circuit. But that isn’t even a possibility if you simply buy a ready-made power cable.
Yep, Boris. But do you actually see the cable once it’s plugged into the back of the unit? Or—if the unit is sitting in a rack, or positioned like mine—right up against the front wall? It’s exactly the same situation for me: I only catch a partial glimpse of the speaker cables—which I find so aesthetically pleasing—and I only see the actual connections on the speakers themselves if I look behind the cabinets, which isn’t something I do every few minutes. The same applies to the amplifier side; I don’t see anything at all there, because my amp sits right up against the front wall.
Everyone has to decide for themselves whether it makes sense and if they want to spend extra money on it. The main thing is that the power cable complies with the standards and conducts electricity. It should be properly constructed so that, the very first time you plug it into a wall outlet, you don’t get a small flash and a bang—followed by a blown fuse.