Uhm… are you sure?
I can tell you first hand that when I replaced my caps in my speakers with better caps, the sound was improved. Using a bypass cap would improve things even more.
If you truly believe what you posted… why do you own any gear beyond simple Chi-Fi that is based on a TI TDAxxx amp chip?
Eleven,
For many things in HiFi that is certainly a true statement.
However , when we’re talking about 40 dB, that is really an enormous difference.
Expressed in absolute percentage, it’s 10,000.
StandardModel
I am referring to incremental changes like the OP suggested. I also said that Rose should test it in a RD160 test mule and that if it improves the sound quality they should incorporate it into the RD161. Are there changes to components that have an impact on sound quality? Yes. Are there changes that don’t? Yes. Does the choice of digital output from a digital transport make a difference? I would argue no, but many here swear by I2S.
I stand by my statement that high end audio marketing attempts to differentiate one’s product from the competition and sometimes the difference is actually not audible. But I will never tell anyone how to spend their own money.
Eleven,
Everything you said, I agree with. I just would add -as I attempted to do- is that sometimes the changes are not just marketing. A product with ten thousand percent less noise seems as if it just might make a real audible difference. In any event we both agree that it’s certainly worth testing for inclusion in the next iteration.
StandardModel
Ah,
I think we’re in agreement.
It would depend on what changes were made and what features were introduced.
ESS for example shows their various chips in a matrix to highlight changes and differences between the chips.
Some chips are deprecated and there’s a replacement identified.
Is there a difference between digital input/output? Maybe.
I’ll use this as an example. Take your USB-C cable. While there are different cables that use the USB-C connector… they are built to different specifications. The changes in these specifications can lead to differences in sound that are audible. We’ve seen this in USB-C dongles where the better cables that are built to USB-C 4 or Thunderbolt specifications will perform better due to larger gauge wiring and better insulation. (They are made to handle more power and faster communication.)
But that’s about it.
But yes to your point, there’s a lot of nonsense floating around.
Mikey, stop with such answers and don’t answer if you have no idea. It’s really bad with you and @BorisM was right as always.
Stop sucking up your knowledge from YT videos like a sponge!
Here is the unadorned truth about USB cables in streaming!
For the highest audio quality with top streaming services such as Qobuz or Tidal, you need a maximum of approx. 9.2 Megabit per second (Mbit/s) .
A normal, standard USB cable is enough to transfer this amount of data error-free.
The absolute upper limit for commercial streaming providers (Tidal, Qobuz or Apple Music / Amazon Music) is 24-bit and 192 kHz in FLAC format.
Real demand (by FLAC): Since the services use the lossless but compressed FLAC format, the actual data rate during streaming usually drops to approx. 3 to 5 Mbit/s.
Comparison to video: Even the absolute maximum of 9.2 Mbit/s is extremely little. For comparison: a single 4K video stream on Netflix requires about 15 to 25 Mbit/s. Any normal Internet line handles it without any problems.
Why a standard USB cable is completely sufficient!
In audiophile circles, expensive special cables are often sold, but from a purely technical point of view this is not necessary for pure data transport:
Massive bandwidth: Even the ancient USB 2.0 standard (the almost all external digital-to-analog converters or Use DACs) creates up to 480 Mbit/s. That’s more than 50 times what the maximum audio signal could ever consume.
Digital transmission (ones and zeros): Digital data packets flow through the USB cable. As long as the cable is not defective, the signal arrives at the DAC 100% identical. A more expensive cable cannot make the zeros and ones “more beautiful”.
When a better cable makes sense: A more expensive cable does not improve the sound of the music data. It can make sense at most if it is particularly well shielded to prevent electromagnetic noise (such as a buzzing or cracking), which is sometimes scattered by power supplies in the computer via the ground vein of the USB cable into the DAC. But a solid, well-made standard cable for a few euros is also sufficient for this.
I do not ask, but: no comment!
No wonder Amir kicked you out.
@Bonte
You should quit while you’re behind.
I used the USB-C cable example because I actually experienced it w my Onix Alpha dongle dac.
And its documented and confirmed by others on the thread over at Head-fi.org.
That’s the problem w you and Boris. You don’t know what you don’t know.
Boris tried to pretend he knew something about software development. He didn’t.
When you can walk the walk, then talk the talk.
I miss Boris. Whatever penance he is serving should not be permanent.
No, let it be good! That’s just a useless waste of life for me.
He did it to himself.
Like I’ve said. You can go back and see why he got banned.
These are the people who comment on every question a member asks, regardless of whether it fits the topic or are examples that do not interest anyone. I also hope that @BorisM comes back.
Insults from Boris side or not, but when people are banned who tell the truth, it also says a lot about these moderators. How often has Boris given really good tips to the forum members? Tips that have solved their problem and not just selfish answers like: I take this and this or bring examples of what I use. It pisses me off that such politics prevails here. 
This is getting off topic.
The issue of Boris isn’t his expressing his opinion… but his attacks on others.
On the contrary!
It just doesn’t fit into your self-centered self-image. You should think about your actions and dealing with people (e.g. here in the forum)!
Your subjunctives…I think, I guess, I, I, I…
Your examples: Maybe no one wants to know because the members want their problem solved. But you have to reply to every post, which comes from an extreme need for validity.
You always said Boris is a basement child, but you are the lonest person! Anyone who answers every post wants to establish contact, regardless of whether it fits the topic or not (Your examples).
Instead of littering the garbage, you should rather go into nature and switch off. Chicago has beautiful parks and also outside of Chicago there are beautiful natural landscapes, where you might get your head clear and possibly also question your egomania.
But I make a crucial mistake. Such people should not be posted back so as not to give them a reason to respond again and again.
Think about it before you reply to every post here again.
Audiophiles love imperfect gear that alter the sound. They can then combine a couple of imperfect devices to create their iseal sound.
I2S was intended for internal connection over short distances in digital devices by Philips/Sony engineers. Usage over longer distances with different might might introduce sound 
And how did you measure the capacitance of old and new capacitors?
I would love to know the answer to this as well. Not because of Smegel, but because people always talk about capacitors aging and the impacts on the sound of amps. I had an Adcom amp, GFA-555 II that I purchased in 1993 or 1994. I lightly used it for about 4 years and then it went into a closet for the next 25 years. My buddy needed an amp and I offered it to him and he is using it with no problems. But he keeps asking me if the capacitors are still good. I have no idea. It sounds good to me and him. Is it worth fixing something that isn’t broken? If it is broken, then by all means get it fixed, but if it works is it worth upgrading the caps?
I love Chicago, it’s my kind of town
Ok so to answer @Eleven’s smug answer…
First, I had to tear down the speaker so I could refinish the cabinets. That means pulling the drivers, the port, and the back plate. (The XO Is attached to the backplate… ) So they were open and I noticed that one of the 12uF caps had a bulge.
(You do know what means, right?) So if I was going to replace the 12uF caps (because you want the speakers to be symetrical) might as well as replace the 3.3uF cap. I could have kept the resistors but decided to upgrade them as well to a better grade of Mundorfs.
I also noticed that the inductors were in the same plane and too close so I rotated the smaller inductor (tweeter) to be perpendicular to the other (You do know why you do that, right?)
All in, it wasn’t that expensive and after they burned in… they sound great.
Smug? You are seeing ghosts. But in any event you made my point. You replaced an old broken part with new working part and it sounded better. Shocking!
Gee, I don’t know… having a bulge on the 12uF cap is a pretty good sign not to mention they are 24+ yrs old.
But since you asked… you get a multi-meter w the feature. You remove and drain the cap. Then test.
So if you’re going to remove the cap… you’re halfway there so why not upgrade.
Now while the drivers and cabinets are great on the VA Hadyns, they cut corners on the caps. I had a bit of trouble identifying an equivalent replacement for the 12uF cap but it would have been around $1 - $3 price range. So it was worth looking at Madisound and other shops for replacement caps.
W.R.T your ad com… They tend to have decent caps. You’d only want to replace them if you had bulges. Since you’d have to remove them to test them… not something I’d want to do unless I was planning on replacing them anyway. You tend to see people replacing caps on cheaper Chi-Fi clones because of the high ESR on the cheaper caps. But hey, to each their own.
Note: I didn’t measure the caps to see if they were way off. When I looked at the XO and the quality of the components… I decided to do the component upgrade. Well worth it.