Any chance of incorporating the new AK4911 into the RD 160?

Gee, how should I interpret that?

Now to your question… I did the work on an XO less parts.
As to amps…

It would depend on the amp.
What most people talk about is trying to reduce the ESR and that means replacing the cheap caps that you tend to find on chi-fi gear, including clones.

So you upgrade the caps.

If you see a bulge or a leak… its time replace them.

As to Chicago… its ok… seen better days.

Lakefront is nice. Lincoln Park is nice. Walk down to the lagoons w the dog to see the turtles.
But right now too hot. Last year sucked due to the Canadian fires which impacted our air quality.
And of course Wrigley Field is fun too.

You said in your post that you replaced your caps with better caps and it improved the sound. No, you replaced a broken cap with a working cap and it improved the sound.

Yup.

Look, just because a cap has a bulge doesn’t mean its completely shot. It still worked and played and sounded ok.
[Edit] There’s a disconnect. Here. When a cap bulges it means its failing. There’s more but do you really want to get in to the variance on the stated value and the measured value? Also one cap was bulging slightly. No leaks.

But rather than find a pair of equivalent grade 12uF caps to replace the bad cap and the other one in the other speaker… I decided to upgrade all the caps to Clarity PURs and the the resistors to Mundorfs.

BTW even before seeing the bulge, I already made up my mind to do the upgrades when I saw the lower grade caps.

One of the YT reviewers pulled apart a KEF Meta R3 and the equivalent priced Buchardt speakers. He showed how the KEF had the better cabinet, while the Buchardt had the better made XO. His point was that both speakers were made to a price point where there is give and take.

For me, my Hadyn s were made in '00. So to spend the $ and upgrade some components when I was refinishing the cabinet… no brainer. The cost of the primer, car paint and then the clear coat… the caps and resistors were about the same. (Add in the sand paper and polishing disks for my sister’s orbital sander too.)

I just wetted my pants, Smegel looks for bulges and measures with a multi-meter :smiley: too fucking funny this guy…

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Dude, perhaps you can’t read.
Two issues.
I pulled the XO saw one cap w a slight budge where it shouldn’t have been.
But even before I pulled the XO, I was planning to redo the caps anyway because they were over 20yrs old.

The second issue was answering the question on how to measure the caps.
My cheap volt meter doesn’t have the capability to measure caps, yes I should have gotten a better one but i bought that unit because I needed a cheap volt meter.

And of course you hunt down the hypex module’s schematics as if its a huge find when its a module that is sold to DIYers. Along w Purifi’s reference boards.

Yet show me the schematics for a Marantz 10…

No, Mikey!

All people can read, otherwise they wouldn’t be here. Not only @Andre and I have understood what’s wrong with you! I have told you several times in the last few days that you should not improve everyone here and make a fool of yourself. @BorisM tried to make you understand the same. Please stop leaving your me-related comment everywhere!

Also my post to Mark, was a post as I see it and I did not respond to your post. Why can’t you just understand that? I speak in subjunctives: Mark would also find something with Rose devices, which he might have designed differently in terms of components on the board. A good electronics technician always finds something to nag. Even a dentist always finds something, even if your chew bar is tip top, because they have to earn money, unlike Mark.

You just don’t have the ability to read between the lines and combine something like some forum members mean in their post. That’s exactly what I’ve posted to you a thousand times. So stop always thinking (think :face_with_monocle:…mmh…you believe and accept) that people always respond exactly to your post.

No, he’s not funny! He is so convinced of himself that he wants to patronize everyone and convince him that he is right. His alleged knowledge, he simply sucks up from YT videos.

Mike is a YouTube university graduate or Stammtisch-Elektroniker:laughing:

:arrow_up: People who think they are watching a few videos replace years of training or studying.

  • Stammtisch-Elektroniker: He has “snatched” the terms, throws them into the round, but does not withstand any technical discussion.

In addition, there are his other “ability”. If you are interested in the following, just research and read the meaning!

Half-knowing, Better-know, Blender, Important (want to reply to every comment and be right), Chair expert.

Ah Bonte…

You clearly haven’t been paying attention.
Since you and Andre and some others seem to think that companies should provide their schematics free and open… I asked you to go get Lyngdorf’s schematics. After all you own one and as an owner and your clear misunderstanding of ‘right to repair’ you feel you should be entitled to it.

But you haven’t done so. Now why is that?
I asked for a Marantz 10 which is their modified Purifi design. Yet nothing.

Andre posts a hypex schematic from 2016 which BTW is a unit that is sold to DIYers.

My point that most if not all commercial companies do not share their schematics is the NORM. So the belief that Rose is doing something outrageous is laughable.

You then go on a tangent about Mend it Mark and an episode about a guy who created a joke of a product.

But you missed the point that Mend it Mark doesn’t do SMC repairs.

When I talked about my replacing my caps in my XOs I was then asked why I did it which I said that I was planning on doing it because they were already over 20yrs old and I did notice a small bulge. in the 12uF cap on one of the speakers.

I was also asked how do you measure the CAPS which I said you remove them, drain them and use the multi-meter setting if your multi-meter has it. Mine doesn’t because I bought a cheap volt meter at the time. So I didn’t measure mine.

But clearly that went over your and Andre’s head that I was talking about two different things.

You clearly don’t know what you don’t know.

And I seriously doubt you , Andre or most people here are capable of doing work on SMCs. I know I am not because I don’t have the gear or the desire. Which goes back to the earlier discussions… about companies are using SMC to cut the cost of manufacturing which you seem to think its all a scam to make the products more disposable.

Clueless as ever @Bonte
And I bet you’re just upset that the US won tonight while Germany is back home crying in their beers.

Goes past the topic of the last posts again.

What you usually and again and again try to impose here is laughable! See @Andre (I just wetted my pants, Smegel looks for bulges and measures with a multi-meter :smiley: too fucking funny this guy…).

You still don’t understand what people here mean.

@Bonte

I wasn’t going to do this but… since you and some others don’t pay attention…

So while you ramble on w a cut and paste of the audio connection spec, you miss the point.

The cable itself.
While the USB-C connections are the same… there are different specifications for the cable.
USB-C started at 480Mb/s as the spec. Yet when you get to USB-C 4 or higher specs you see that speed go up to and beyond 10Gb/s . You also see the USB-C cable rated to carry more power.

Notice I said power not volts. ( Remember kiddies P = V * I )

In order to increase power, the gauge of the wire increases.

Do you not think that can impact the quality of sound?

Now in my example of the Onix Alpha Dongle Dac, the better grade cable (meaning USB-C 4 or thunderbolt cable over your USB-C cable rated for 480Mb/s cable) You will hear a difference.

And yes, the bit rate is the same. (Same frequency same bit depth)

Now why is that?
Hmmm. Larger gauge copper wires. Better quality components, better insulation. All play in to this.
While the USB-C spec voltage allows for some variance, the better wire which is rated for more power will allow more power which means more current.

Now if you haven’t figured it out by now … the differences in current can make an audible difference.
At the same time, because of the better quality cable … you’ll have less interference.

Do you think that will impact the sound?

Now the funny thing w the Onix Alpha. At the time of its release… best sounding CS based Dongle on the market. One quirk was that it needed a bit of power. Some phones’ USB-C connector wouldn’t be able to provide enough power. (This is actually documented on Head-Fi.org’s thread. ) Switching to a better grade cable helped a bit… switching to an iFi cable that split off power to a USB-A connector so you could use an external battery also helped w sound and running it off under powered phones.

But I digress. The point is that in this example cables make a difference even while you’re still sending data at the same frequency and bit depth.

And when we start talking about capacitors… you can take two caps w the same value and within the same tolerance. You could measure the capacitance and see that they are the same.
Yet they can impact the sound. Perhaps you’ve heard of this thing called ESR?

To the earlier question about why you may want to swap caps when working on older gear, is that caps can go bad. But in order to test them you have to remove them so might as well as replace them. At the same time… depending on the gear the quality of the caps will vary. Remember that ESR thing? Cheap caps found on chi-fi gear has high ESR. Lowering the ESR will improve the sound.

Note that theAdcom gear has decent caps so unless you had an issue it wouldn’t be worth mucking with it or you were planning on taking it apart anyways.

But Bonte, you knew all this right?

And the reason I don’t trust my skills, even though they are good enough for simple repairs… is that as a teen, I’ve smoked a couple of cheap Timex/Sinclair motherboards that I was playing with. (Yes I’m that old.)

Bonte,
I bet you’ve never had to repair your electronic gear.
Build your own PCs.

Stuff like that.

kokhlefel