I’ve already posted this elsewhere …
Its a CAT 7 rated cable w an RJ45 connection.
You could alternatively buy the bulk wire and then make your own cables, or use it in wall and then connect to an RJ45 socket.
I think you’d be happier over on ASR…
In my case it‘s a feature in my rourer from AVM Fritz!Box.
Not in my switch.
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Yes, you’ve posted that you have no clue many times already.
I can stick a CAT666 sticker on a cable and sell it on Amazon (want some? I’ll sell it to you very cheap, only $100/ft).
Cat 7 spec very precisely specifies connectors for a Cat7 cable. That’s what specs do. And those connectors are not RJ-45 or anything that would fit into an RJ-45 jack. Just because some overpriced AliExpress knockoff is selling something that has “Cat7” on the label does not mean anything other than that there are enough uninformed people who will pay for it.
I can understand why you are so upset with ASR, nobody there would believe that you had ever been allowed to touch a data center with a ten foot pole either 
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Really, it is quite amusing how some people would completely ignore what the actual standard says but will absolutely believe any marketing fluff.
Do you also have that magic magnet for your car that doubles your gas mileage? I mean, it says so right in the Amazon listing that it does!
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Ok, same idea. You’re managing your traffic. Back in the day I used to have a cisco router when I had a 56Kb Lease line… early mid 90s. Now its done on the switch, and could even be done at the DPU.
(Sorry, part of my day job leaking thru. )
Boris is still droning on… not knowing when to quit…
But back to the whole audiophile switch…
I’d say it was snake oil, but you’re getting a real product where they put real COTS in it… albeit expensive kit. Because of the lack of economies of scale… you’re paying a shite ton of money for something that could be had w commercial grade products that are going to be better in many respects.
And this is weird. They talk about a femto grade clock… in their switch… its over kill because they are still at 1GbE and they don’t have a lot of ‘fabric’ in the switch. But if you go w a 10GbE or better commercial grade switch… you can get the same outcome, plus a faster network in your home. (Not that many of you would notice.)
If you watch some of the YT channels that deal w home networks and smart homes… you’re seeing 10GbE becoming more prevalent since mother boards now come w 10GbE on them. That’s why going w a better switch helps. You can probably get a great deal on a used switch these days. But you need to buy them from reputable dealers and not off ebay… less risk.
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I’d argue that a clean power supply is required as well.
Well, yes and no… to a point.
At a high level… Yes power will impact sound. The question is… at what point will that impact be audible? For example… you’re expecting 120v @60Hz. At what point will a drop in voltage cause a change that you can hear? Or if you’re not getting a 60Hz sine wave but its 59.8Hz instead? Or it fluctuates? My point is that some deviations from 120v @ 60Hz will not make an audible impact, while some will.
So what do you do?
- Whole house line filter. Roughly $1500 or so.
- Surge protectors?
- For your listening room, upgrade your wiring to 20amp rated wires?
- Power conditioners w battery backup?
- Upgrade the Wall Outlets from Builder basic?
- Power regenerators?
And the list goes on…
Each of these has a cost. And may or may not make sense.
In my office, I’ve got my RS520, MonAcoustic mini mons, w a Rel T/5x sub.
They’re on a surge protector.
So the question becomes what do I do?
Will it impact the sound to a point where I can hear a difference?
And that’s the thing.
Wouldn’t I be better off going w a DAC/Pre-amp then Orchard Audio Mono blocs into better speakers? (for the same price?)
Upgrading the plugs? Sure. There’s an electrical/lighting store near by or Grainger nearby too.
Build new power cables? Sure. That would be fun.
But beyond that?
Have to add… YMMV depending on what you have.
Do you have a dedicated listening room?
Do you own vs rent?
How much money do you want to spend?
I mean if you’ve got a $250K system and money to burn… sure. Go for it.
But a lot of what you’re doing will not really impact the sound.
I mean going out and putting in an ‘audiophile’ network switch that you then connect into your WiiM ultra whatever… and then claim you hear this amazing difference… nah bruh that’s your imagination.
Wasn’t talking about power requirements, but noise from a power supply. Those switching power supplies especially wall-wort style can be noisy.
I’ll ignore the irrelevant flamewar and give you what little experience I have that is relevant.
The symbology of the icons on the app’s remote control confuses me, and I’m always turning the RS250A all the way off when I meant to put it into standby. That seems to cause problems with the IP addresses, and it takes a little horsing around to get things back on the rails. (You can see what’s going on if you look at your router’s interface.)
Also, I found that the RS250A is not as reliable as some other WiFi devices.The receiver sitting next to it is rock solid; but the RS250A loses its connection sometimes. I solved that by moving on of the satellites in my mesh network.
Sometimes it is just fun to point at self-important but ignorant clowns (that would be you).
That’s why you need to buy competently designed equipment that filters it out. Even Rob Watts (rather snake-oily guy himself) has no time for LPS nonsense.
How is any of that relevant to this thread?
Sadly, Smegmel the schwul is far too dense to know not just when to stop and let grown-ups speak, but even the difference between standards and marketing. Probably has the Quantum Signal Enhancer from here and believes that it is real, too.
For anyone less dense, if you have bought a “Cat7” cable and it plugs into your equipment, congratulations. You have just bought yourself a Cat6a (if you are really lucky; could have been Cat 5 or worse) cable at a significant markup.
Well there’s noise and power issues before you get to your electronics…
But in terms of power supplies… yeah there’s some differing school of thought here… But unless you’re building your own kit, you’re stuck with what they give until someone comes up w a replacement kit. I think there’s one for the Eversolo…
There’s a lot of options here.
Its interesting.
The RS250 looks like it uses an internal wi-fi / BT offering while the RS520 uses a dongle as does the RS150 series. The RS151 is using wi-fi dongle while it has BT built in version 5.4 which is up to date.
I would think w the RS250 if it is built in… then you may have issues w wi-fi based on orientation because of the case may be causing some interference.
I wish they would add different drivers to support different options like separates.
I mean if the RS151 has wi-fi only dongle that should be an option for the other models too.
I’m simply responding to the OP: